On the eve of Christmas, I'm telling a different story about another person whose initials are J.C. Yes. I'm talking about the world's most famous chef. The French Chef, Julia Child.
Love this, Nan. It reminds me of the time a friend of a friend took me to meet David Bowie. He was a journalist who claimed to have a good relationship with God and would be interviewing him at a small presser after his rehearsal for "The Arsenio Hall Show". "You should come," he said. "I'll introduce you. This FOAF was the last to talk to God and asked me to stand back while he did his interview. Then, when it was over, he said, "Come on, let's go." God and I looked at each other, confused. Clearly, there was supposed to be some interaction. All I got was awkward eye contact with The Man Who Sold the World and ch-ch-ch-ch-changed my life. Hope Sophie enjoyed that famous bone. xo
Sophie loved all the bones. You're so hip. I had to look up FOAF. Stop doing that to me. I'm of an age where I know words, not letters that stand in for them, and then I have to do research and that slows me down! 🤪
DB lived in Woodstock. Periodically, he'd come to the bookstore I worked in. When he came, he'd always ask the same question, "can you show me where the street maps are?" And I'd explain to him (again) that we only sold hiking maps, and then I'd send him up the street to the hardware store that sold the kind he was looking for. He was polite, lovely, and the thing that blew my mind is that he was wearing a Members Only-type jacket and slacks. WHA? And no, I wasn't mistaking a look-alike, it was Bowie. He had another sweet interaction with the manager of our children's store. He helped her assemble one of those cardboard promotional book displays. When he left, her teenage daughter (who was shelving books part-time) said, "MOM! Do you who that was????" And she responded that no, she didn't. That story made it into a book of indie bookstore illustrations.
I’m not so much “hip” as I am a very lazy typer. If I can abbreviate/acronym anything, I will. And I love your DB story. I call him God because look at how the world went once he died. 🥹 xo
Interesting theory. He was special. He was lovely.
I don't think I'd call him god, though. I love typing, even though typos abound these days, I've so much to say, my fingers don't always keep up with my thoughts. And I've completely forgotten what FOAF stands for already! xo
Your respect and appreciation for JC shines through here, Nan, and brings her to life. She was such a shining example of how passion, determination, and okay, a bit of a pedigree, can carry us far.
Even when margarine was the more popular choice, I was a butter girl. I remember making meals of graham crackers smeared (schmeared) with butter in college. And recently, my boss sent me the cutest dish towel with "butter" conversation bubbles all over it. She explained, "You talk about butter a lot." LOL!
OH, goodness. MARGARINE is so gross. And my whole family (except my immediate, because my mother knew better), ate margarine because it was "healthier." NO it wasn't/isn't and never will be. There's a French restaurant that I go to once a year (birthday) that has the best butter I've ever tasted. I like it salty, I like it sweet, I like it as ghee, there's nothing yummier. I don't eat it as often as I used to, I try to keep dairy to a minimum because cows are wonderful and I'm a guilt-ridden girl when it comes to animals (no, not vegan, pescatarian, vegetarian). There's family lore about my mom when she was a little girl. My grandmother took her food shopping and she rode in the cart. While my grandmother's back was turned, my mother found her way into one of those one pound blocks of golden delight, had unwrapped it, and was helping herself to big bites off the bar. Yeah. Butter. Better. No contest. And I think you can only use the word "schmear" when discussing the application of cream cheese on a bagel. But what do I know? I'm just a Jewish New Yorker....And JC was one of a kind, and I'm glad about that. What a wonderful character she was. xo
So much margarine across my childhood. I can still remember that little swirled dimple in the middle of a newly opened tub. Ick. Depending on your interest, the Miyoko's vegan butter is actually pretty yummy. As for schmear, technically, I think it started out as any spread, but I'm neither Jewish nor in the habit of ordering bagels, so we'll go with your take.
I was joking about schmear...but let's go with it any way. I like Miyoko's vegan butter a lot, the european version, I was going to mention it in my last comment. Earth Balance is just margarine. Hilarious what marketing can do to obscure the truth! xo
I abhor French cooking but I must agree with JC that a blowtorch for a woman is a must! I so enjoy dipping in and out of your life with these tales. Thank you for sharing the adventures with us. 🙏
I indulge in a really great French meal with my best friend once a year, (because the restaurant is the most expensive one where I live) to celebrate our birthdays. It's SO rich, so lush, and the service is perfection. Last year, instead, we went for omekase sushi. We ate exactly the same thing, and my friend got ill. We think it was pre-existing, but she doesn't imagine she'll ever eat sushi again. SO this year, we indulge in all the fats...It's going to be hard to find something to eat there that goes with my current eating choices but I can always have the raw oysters....and keep my fingers crossed that it's not my turn to get sick this year! French food and being pescatarian doesn't mix that well. But...just the bread and butter would be enough...because the butter that they serve? I've never had better anywhere, including Union Square Café. What don't you like about it? xo
The richness. My belly revolts at so much butter and cream. I prefer simple, whole foods, but I tear up some bread and butter so I would happily make a birthday meal of just that with you!
I hear you. I got sick yesterday because I ate something that was way too rich for me and had some meat in it. And too much cheese. I spent the rest of the day within a whisper's distance to my loo. It's funny that you said that about simple, whole foods. I made note of that for myself a few days ago. That I really just enjoy eating the thing, I don't even need seasoning because I like the taste of the food itself. And the thought made me happy.
I love that the thought brought you joy. I sometimes get lulled in by the visual lusciousness of extravagant food and then I regretfully remember why I don’t eat them. I hope you’re feeling better today!
Ooh la la, Nan! There was pleasure in the reading, and even more in the hearing! Thanks so much for resharing this fabulous story. I hope you took the bone anyway!
Of course I took the bone! Sophie would have been PISSED if I hadn't. Even though there wasn't a lot of fat, grizzle, and meat, left for her, she knew it was something special. She knew it was her usual every-Tuesday bone. Thanks for reading AND listening. xo
She surely was a powerhouse, Nan. I've seen all the movies and know her and Paul's story. What a great love story! But oh, could she cook. And yes, fat adds enormous flavor to food. I used to be afraid of fat, not not anymore. I just try to eat the healthy kind. But once in a while I can't resist the taste of butter on toast. And so I indulge myself. Life is too short! xoxo
Actually, the healthy kind IS butter...or ghee, if you don't want milk solids. You should indulge yourself...more than once in a while BECAUSE life is shorter than we think, and goes so fast! I know you have health considerations, and that you're very careful about how you care for yourself, but hey, butter? Butter on toast is the best! Love to you, MR. xo
Yup. It was impressive. But with all that meat and fat in her, I doubt she was fazed by her intake. The body can become accustomed to many intrusions. And it was lunch, so that was the part that floored me. But I've never been a tippler. One drink (and usually just a half will do) is more than enough for me, once in a while. But where I fail at tippling, I excel at a a nighttime THC vape...sends me right to dreamland. LOVE that. But I prefer clarity over all of that stuff. xo
I love this so, so, so much. I adore Julia Child, and I adore the way you tell this story. Have you read Dearie? It's a doorstopper of a book but SUCH a great biography of her. She was a force of nature indeed, and the best butter evangelist there ever was.
I haven't read it, Dearie. Didn't know about it. She was amazing. I'm glad you enjoyed it. It's one of my favorite essays. And the owner of Union Square Café, Danny Meyer, loved it. That was a treat, to reconnect with him. He's a total inspiration. Working at USC, and learning from him was one of the best jobs and experiences I've ever had. xo
That sounds like a dream job, and Danny Meyer sounds like a total mensch. Add Dearie to your TBR—it's excellent. And as a person obsessed with behind-the-scenes restaurant and cooking stories and chefs, I give your post 10 out of 10 stars, no notes. xo
I have so much to tell you about my experience working there. That could be a memoir in and of itself. Greatest job. Best co-worker friends, so much education. Danny wrote a great book called Setting the Table. A memoir, really. It's all about what true hospitality is. I think my time there reinforced what I already knew about kindness and generosity. He honed it in me. If you haven't read it, I highly recommend. xo
Adding Danny’s book to my TBR. I love memoir and I love food and memoirs about food are my happy place. Have you read Gabrielle Hamilton’s Blood, Bones, and Butter? That’s a beauty.
Let’s please add a conversation about your experience at USC to our to-do list pronto!
Blood, Bones, and Butter is fabulous. I used to work with Gabby Hamilton before she was the "Gabrielle Hamilton." We were servers together for a while at her sister's restaurant in Lambertville, NJ right before I started my job at Union Square Cafe. Gabby was a very sullen, superior (in her attitude, not talents) server. She wasn't friendly. I found her really intimidating. I was thrilled when she opened Prune. I never ate there, though. Her sister, Melissa was very gentle and serious. Her father, Jim, was the master of ceremonies. xo
I am so glad you have retold this story because I missed it the first time around and I love, love loved it. Full of so much memory--yours, told so well, mine that welled up with Julia, Union Square Cafe and a good friend Bob Kushner. How cool that you served at that restaurant and served JC!
In the early 2000s my husband and I were in NYC and visited my friend Bob, an artist who lived and had his studio on the Fifth floor of the same building as the restaurant when it was on 16th street. He had done some artwork for the restaurant and had restaurant credit and we had the most wonderful lunch I have ever had and I brought home a cookbook. Like Julia child's cookbooks, having the recipe does not always make the magic happen in your own kitchen. I still can remember the creamy polenta with mascarpone and the creme brulee, just like you described. A couple of more tidbits about Julia Child. She grew up in Pasadena, CA, which we still proudly acknowledge. And there is a Julia Child rose that she chose to bear her name. It blooms butter yellow and fades to the color of heavy cream. and has a lovely citrus scent.
Thank you for sharing your wonderful memory and for stirring up mine. bon appétit.
I'm thrilled to hear all of this, Leslie. If we don't tell the stories, we sometimes miss out on the connections that are possible, like this. The cookbook is fabulous, Michael Romano the original executive chef was so talented and such a lovely man. The polenta? Unparalleled. The creme brulee from the pastry chef, divine. But the warm banana tart with vanilla ice cream and and macadamia nuts. HEAVEN. My favorite, even though bananas are not a fruit I crave. It was the best. And the garlic spinach, and the homemade potato chips...the grilled red onions. I could tell you so many stories. Was such a great job, one of the best I've ever had. The art was gorgeous, too. I'd love to know what Bob's artwork was. I lived two blocks west, on 16th Street, made getting to work a dream! xo
OK, now I am hungry! I’m sitting at home watching it pour rain, I just may’ve to cook something. Here is Bob’s website, we went to high school together and have remained friends. You probably passed each other in the streets, he and his family have lived there since I think the 70s or 80s. A wonderful person and artist. https://www.robertkushnerstudio.com/
I know exactly who he is. He came into USC when I worked there. I'm wondering if he also had or has a place up in the Hudson Valley? His website is gorgeous. I remember the installation he did at Gramercy Tavern, too. I LOVE THIS!
I love this story. Julia is just naturally funny. Just thinking of her makes me smile. I love the list of quotes. I agree that most of the humor was just her being authentic and unguarded - pure herself. I aspire to that.
Yeah. Fame. But it's okay to drop a whole raw chicken on the floor, pick it up and mess with it in front of the whole world. Oh, pish-posh, the 5-second rule!
I love this comment, Susan. I think she probably knew she had to make a choice. She didn't at all fit the typical standards for women, especially in her era. She led a fascinating life. And she made "too tall, too funny sounding, too klutzy" and made it work for her. She made it sing. I love that about her. She was definitely not neurotypical, IMO. And I love that about her, too. xo
Love this, Nan. It reminds me of the time a friend of a friend took me to meet David Bowie. He was a journalist who claimed to have a good relationship with God and would be interviewing him at a small presser after his rehearsal for "The Arsenio Hall Show". "You should come," he said. "I'll introduce you. This FOAF was the last to talk to God and asked me to stand back while he did his interview. Then, when it was over, he said, "Come on, let's go." God and I looked at each other, confused. Clearly, there was supposed to be some interaction. All I got was awkward eye contact with The Man Who Sold the World and ch-ch-ch-ch-changed my life. Hope Sophie enjoyed that famous bone. xo
Sophie loved all the bones. You're so hip. I had to look up FOAF. Stop doing that to me. I'm of an age where I know words, not letters that stand in for them, and then I have to do research and that slows me down! 🤪
DB lived in Woodstock. Periodically, he'd come to the bookstore I worked in. When he came, he'd always ask the same question, "can you show me where the street maps are?" And I'd explain to him (again) that we only sold hiking maps, and then I'd send him up the street to the hardware store that sold the kind he was looking for. He was polite, lovely, and the thing that blew my mind is that he was wearing a Members Only-type jacket and slacks. WHA? And no, I wasn't mistaking a look-alike, it was Bowie. He had another sweet interaction with the manager of our children's store. He helped her assemble one of those cardboard promotional book displays. When he left, her teenage daughter (who was shelving books part-time) said, "MOM! Do you who that was????" And she responded that no, she didn't. That story made it into a book of indie bookstore illustrations.
I’m not so much “hip” as I am a very lazy typer. If I can abbreviate/acronym anything, I will. And I love your DB story. I call him God because look at how the world went once he died. 🥹 xo
Interesting theory. He was special. He was lovely.
I don't think I'd call him god, though. I love typing, even though typos abound these days, I've so much to say, my fingers don't always keep up with my thoughts. And I've completely forgotten what FOAF stands for already! xo
Nan: You have crafted a truly sumptuous story!
Merci, monsieur! xo
I love the details about Julia's appetite!!!
Thanks, Sallyfish! Love you. xo
How cool!!!!!! I loved this.
Thanks! xo
Wonderful story!
Thanks, Allison. You're a foodie, it makes sense that you'd enjoy! xo
Your respect and appreciation for JC shines through here, Nan, and brings her to life. She was such a shining example of how passion, determination, and okay, a bit of a pedigree, can carry us far.
Even when margarine was the more popular choice, I was a butter girl. I remember making meals of graham crackers smeared (schmeared) with butter in college. And recently, my boss sent me the cutest dish towel with "butter" conversation bubbles all over it. She explained, "You talk about butter a lot." LOL!
OH, goodness. MARGARINE is so gross. And my whole family (except my immediate, because my mother knew better), ate margarine because it was "healthier." NO it wasn't/isn't and never will be. There's a French restaurant that I go to once a year (birthday) that has the best butter I've ever tasted. I like it salty, I like it sweet, I like it as ghee, there's nothing yummier. I don't eat it as often as I used to, I try to keep dairy to a minimum because cows are wonderful and I'm a guilt-ridden girl when it comes to animals (no, not vegan, pescatarian, vegetarian). There's family lore about my mom when she was a little girl. My grandmother took her food shopping and she rode in the cart. While my grandmother's back was turned, my mother found her way into one of those one pound blocks of golden delight, had unwrapped it, and was helping herself to big bites off the bar. Yeah. Butter. Better. No contest. And I think you can only use the word "schmear" when discussing the application of cream cheese on a bagel. But what do I know? I'm just a Jewish New Yorker....And JC was one of a kind, and I'm glad about that. What a wonderful character she was. xo
So much margarine across my childhood. I can still remember that little swirled dimple in the middle of a newly opened tub. Ick. Depending on your interest, the Miyoko's vegan butter is actually pretty yummy. As for schmear, technically, I think it started out as any spread, but I'm neither Jewish nor in the habit of ordering bagels, so we'll go with your take.
I was joking about schmear...but let's go with it any way. I like Miyoko's vegan butter a lot, the european version, I was going to mention it in my last comment. Earth Balance is just margarine. Hilarious what marketing can do to obscure the truth! xo
😅 🥯 💗
I abhor French cooking but I must agree with JC that a blowtorch for a woman is a must! I so enjoy dipping in and out of your life with these tales. Thank you for sharing the adventures with us. 🙏
I indulge in a really great French meal with my best friend once a year, (because the restaurant is the most expensive one where I live) to celebrate our birthdays. It's SO rich, so lush, and the service is perfection. Last year, instead, we went for omekase sushi. We ate exactly the same thing, and my friend got ill. We think it was pre-existing, but she doesn't imagine she'll ever eat sushi again. SO this year, we indulge in all the fats...It's going to be hard to find something to eat there that goes with my current eating choices but I can always have the raw oysters....and keep my fingers crossed that it's not my turn to get sick this year! French food and being pescatarian doesn't mix that well. But...just the bread and butter would be enough...because the butter that they serve? I've never had better anywhere, including Union Square Café. What don't you like about it? xo
The richness. My belly revolts at so much butter and cream. I prefer simple, whole foods, but I tear up some bread and butter so I would happily make a birthday meal of just that with you!
I hear you. I got sick yesterday because I ate something that was way too rich for me and had some meat in it. And too much cheese. I spent the rest of the day within a whisper's distance to my loo. It's funny that you said that about simple, whole foods. I made note of that for myself a few days ago. That I really just enjoy eating the thing, I don't even need seasoning because I like the taste of the food itself. And the thought made me happy.
I love that the thought brought you joy. I sometimes get lulled in by the visual lusciousness of extravagant food and then I regretfully remember why I don’t eat them. I hope you’re feeling better today!
Yup. All better! Are you still up in the northern parts?
Yup! Looking forward to snow ❄️!
Ooh la la, Nan! There was pleasure in the reading, and even more in the hearing! Thanks so much for resharing this fabulous story. I hope you took the bone anyway!
Of course I took the bone! Sophie would have been PISSED if I hadn't. Even though there wasn't a lot of fat, grizzle, and meat, left for her, she knew it was something special. She knew it was her usual every-Tuesday bone. Thanks for reading AND listening. xo
She surely was a powerhouse, Nan. I've seen all the movies and know her and Paul's story. What a great love story! But oh, could she cook. And yes, fat adds enormous flavor to food. I used to be afraid of fat, not not anymore. I just try to eat the healthy kind. But once in a while I can't resist the taste of butter on toast. And so I indulge myself. Life is too short! xoxo
Actually, the healthy kind IS butter...or ghee, if you don't want milk solids. You should indulge yourself...more than once in a while BECAUSE life is shorter than we think, and goes so fast! I know you have health considerations, and that you're very careful about how you care for yourself, but hey, butter? Butter on toast is the best! Love to you, MR. xo
I remember this one and savoured the second read. The pats of butter don’t really surprise me. But two bottles of Cabernet?
Yup. It was impressive. But with all that meat and fat in her, I doubt she was fazed by her intake. The body can become accustomed to many intrusions. And it was lunch, so that was the part that floored me. But I've never been a tippler. One drink (and usually just a half will do) is more than enough for me, once in a while. But where I fail at tippling, I excel at a a nighttime THC vape...sends me right to dreamland. LOVE that. But I prefer clarity over all of that stuff. xo
"People who love to eat are always the best people." I so agree!!!
Loved this, Nan!!!
Thanks, Cathy. I agree with Mrs. Child, as well. xo
So, so fun! Thank you, Nan. And have beautiful holidays!
Glad you enjoyed! And thank you. Enjoy the season, my friend. xo
I love this so, so, so much. I adore Julia Child, and I adore the way you tell this story. Have you read Dearie? It's a doorstopper of a book but SUCH a great biography of her. She was a force of nature indeed, and the best butter evangelist there ever was.
I haven't read it, Dearie. Didn't know about it. She was amazing. I'm glad you enjoyed it. It's one of my favorite essays. And the owner of Union Square Café, Danny Meyer, loved it. That was a treat, to reconnect with him. He's a total inspiration. Working at USC, and learning from him was one of the best jobs and experiences I've ever had. xo
That sounds like a dream job, and Danny Meyer sounds like a total mensch. Add Dearie to your TBR—it's excellent. And as a person obsessed with behind-the-scenes restaurant and cooking stories and chefs, I give your post 10 out of 10 stars, no notes. xo
I have so much to tell you about my experience working there. That could be a memoir in and of itself. Greatest job. Best co-worker friends, so much education. Danny wrote a great book called Setting the Table. A memoir, really. It's all about what true hospitality is. I think my time there reinforced what I already knew about kindness and generosity. He honed it in me. If you haven't read it, I highly recommend. xo
Adding Danny’s book to my TBR. I love memoir and I love food and memoirs about food are my happy place. Have you read Gabrielle Hamilton’s Blood, Bones, and Butter? That’s a beauty.
Let’s please add a conversation about your experience at USC to our to-do list pronto!
Blood, Bones, and Butter is fabulous. I used to work with Gabby Hamilton before she was the "Gabrielle Hamilton." We were servers together for a while at her sister's restaurant in Lambertville, NJ right before I started my job at Union Square Cafe. Gabby was a very sullen, superior (in her attitude, not talents) server. She wasn't friendly. I found her really intimidating. I was thrilled when she opened Prune. I never ate there, though. Her sister, Melissa was very gentle and serious. Her father, Jim, was the master of ceremonies. xo
OMG OMG we must discuss soon because I have a Prune story!!!!
I am so glad you have retold this story because I missed it the first time around and I love, love loved it. Full of so much memory--yours, told so well, mine that welled up with Julia, Union Square Cafe and a good friend Bob Kushner. How cool that you served at that restaurant and served JC!
In the early 2000s my husband and I were in NYC and visited my friend Bob, an artist who lived and had his studio on the Fifth floor of the same building as the restaurant when it was on 16th street. He had done some artwork for the restaurant and had restaurant credit and we had the most wonderful lunch I have ever had and I brought home a cookbook. Like Julia child's cookbooks, having the recipe does not always make the magic happen in your own kitchen. I still can remember the creamy polenta with mascarpone and the creme brulee, just like you described. A couple of more tidbits about Julia Child. She grew up in Pasadena, CA, which we still proudly acknowledge. And there is a Julia Child rose that she chose to bear her name. It blooms butter yellow and fades to the color of heavy cream. and has a lovely citrus scent.
Thank you for sharing your wonderful memory and for stirring up mine. bon appétit.
A butter yellow Julia Child rose - how perfect!!
I'm thrilled to hear all of this, Leslie. If we don't tell the stories, we sometimes miss out on the connections that are possible, like this. The cookbook is fabulous, Michael Romano the original executive chef was so talented and such a lovely man. The polenta? Unparalleled. The creme brulee from the pastry chef, divine. But the warm banana tart with vanilla ice cream and and macadamia nuts. HEAVEN. My favorite, even though bananas are not a fruit I crave. It was the best. And the garlic spinach, and the homemade potato chips...the grilled red onions. I could tell you so many stories. Was such a great job, one of the best I've ever had. The art was gorgeous, too. I'd love to know what Bob's artwork was. I lived two blocks west, on 16th Street, made getting to work a dream! xo
OK, now I am hungry! I’m sitting at home watching it pour rain, I just may’ve to cook something. Here is Bob’s website, we went to high school together and have remained friends. You probably passed each other in the streets, he and his family have lived there since I think the 70s or 80s. A wonderful person and artist. https://www.robertkushnerstudio.com/
I know exactly who he is. He came into USC when I worked there. I'm wondering if he also had or has a place up in the Hudson Valley? His website is gorgeous. I remember the installation he did at Gramercy Tavern, too. I LOVE THIS!
https://www.robertkushnerstudio.com/robert-kushner-installation-gramercy-tavern
Wicca Culinaire
(for Julia Child)
The divine crone
hovers over a
pot of something
cooking---
her age has given
her an endearing
hump, extending
her head just far
enough to smell:
peas and bacon,
roux and carcasses
of all sorts,
and herbs.
Hands tucked behind
herself, she asks
those master chefs
provocative questions,
damn well knowing
the answers---
she probes them
like a roast.
Benevolent mistress,
sideways comic
of queenly stature,
throwing recalcitrant
appliances to the floor---
this curly-haired
connoisseur of
humanity’s delicious
desires--
virgin oils, fresh flesh,
vegetables with the dirt
just washed off---
how she honors a
true ingredient.
A.H.
LOVE. When are you going to start a Substack publication, my dear Ann? xo
I love this story. Julia is just naturally funny. Just thinking of her makes me smile. I love the list of quotes. I agree that most of the humor was just her being authentic and unguarded - pure herself. I aspire to that.
I’ve heard that about her. Sarah Moulton said she once wouldn’t hire someone because of the way she chopped an onion.
Yeah. Fame. But it's okay to drop a whole raw chicken on the floor, pick it up and mess with it in front of the whole world. Oh, pish-posh, the 5-second rule!
Unapologetic to the 10th power. But still graceful and kind.
Yes. Mostly. She was a diva, too. xo
I love this comment, Susan. I think she probably knew she had to make a choice. She didn't at all fit the typical standards for women, especially in her era. She led a fascinating life. And she made "too tall, too funny sounding, too klutzy" and made it work for her. She made it sing. I love that about her. She was definitely not neurotypical, IMO. And I love that about her, too. xo